Nixsm · January 23, 2017 11:13 · Jan 23, 2017 · Jan 23, 2017 · Jan 23, 2017 · Jan 23, 2017
diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -2,7 +2,8 @@
 
 This guide covers building a Let's Split v2. Order your parts and read over this guide while you wait.
 
-I2C isn't covered in this guide (yet), mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
+- I2C isn't covered in this guide (yet), mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
+- Flashing isn't covered. I'm hoping to add this to the QMK Let's Split readme instead.
 
 ## Helpful references
 

diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-# An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split v2
+# An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
 
 This guide covers building a Let's Split v2. Order your parts and read over this guide while you wait.
 
@@ -48,24 +48,36 @@ You'll want to determine the orientation of your boards right now. Remember, the
 - The **left PCB** will have the **TRRS jack on the right**
 - The **right PCB** will have the **TRRS jack on the left**
 
+[TODO image]
+
 This orientation will determine the top of your PCB. Insert the diodes on the top. Once mounted they will fit between the PCB and the plate.
 
 Use a helping hand tool to hold the PCB above your work surface.
 
-Use a small pair of pliers to gently make a 90 degree bend on each side of the diode. It might take a few tries to get right, but you'll get the hang of it soon. They should drop easily into the 2 holes. 
+[TODO image]
+
+Use a small book binding or small pair of pliers to gently make a 90 degree bend on each side of the diode. It might take a few tries to get right, but you'll get the hang of it soon. They should drop easily into the 2 holes. 
+
+[TODO image]
 
 **Double check your work**. Black lines should be facing the square pad.
 
 **Lightly** tack each diode in from the top. This will keep them snug against the surface once we flip it over and do the real soldering from the bottom. You only need a tiny amount of solder here and you should still be able to see through the hole.
 
+[TODO image]
+
 Flip your PCB over and solder the diodes then snip the excess leads.
 
+[TODO image]
+
 ## Mount the TRRS Jack
 
 Mount the TRRS jack on the side opposite from your diodes. It should be on the bottom.
 
 > *Tip:* Use masking tape or a spare finger to hold it in place while you solder it. Tack a couple pins and make sure it's snug against the board, then do the rest.
 
+[TODO image]
+
 ## Connect Jumpers
 
 Right below the TRRS jack you'll see two sets of 3 pads labelled VCC and GND. Jumper them like this:
@@ -78,6 +90,8 @@ GND [ ]     [x] GND
 
 Do both PCBs the same.
 
+[TODO image]
+
 ## Mount Header Pins
 
 You should have received header pins with your Pro Micro. Insert the short side into the bottom of PCB (same side as the TRRS jack) and solder them in. 
@@ -88,6 +102,8 @@ Tack the 2 pins on the end and inspect. If the pins are not quite aligned with t
 
 Solder the rest of the pins (it won't take much solder here).
 
+[TODO image]
+
 The long part of the pins should be protruding from the bottom. We'll trim these later after soldering the Pro Micro, but you can leave them be for now.
 
 ## Mount the Pro Micro
@@ -104,6 +120,8 @@ The long part of the pins should be protruding from the bottom. We'll trim these
 2. Snap the switches into your plate in the spots that overlay the Pro Micro (on the left side that's column 2, and on the right that's column 5).
 3. Line up your PCB with the switches and solder them between the header pins
 
+[TODO image]
+
 ### Mount the Pro Micro the Right Way
 
 You'll be working from the bottom of the board for this step.
@@ -117,26 +135,34 @@ You may need to **trim the pins on the left side switches** as they will likely
 
 Ensure the orientation of your controllers are correct and you've already soldered the 2 switches underneath, then solder all the pins on the Pro Micro.
 
+[TODO image]
+
 At this point you should be able to plug in and verify the board is working and the two mounted switches should work (if you already flashed). If it is, great job!
 
 Trim the excess from the header pins.
 
+[TODO image]
+
 ## Mount the rest of the switches
 
 Home stretch. Gently snap in the rest of the switches and solder them.
 
+[TODO image]
+
 ## Assemble the case
 
 1. Insert the screws on top
 2. Screw the standoffs onto the top screws
 3. Line up the bottom of the case with the standoffs
 4. Screw in the bottom screws to the standoffs
 
+[TODO image]
+
 > *Tip:* Finger tight is sufficient, but you can snug them down just a tad with a tool. Be easy, they don't need much!
 
 ## Finishing touches
 
 1. Add some adhesive vinyl pads to the bottom
 2. Install your keycaps and connect the two halves with the TRRS cable.
 
-Great job!
+You did it! Great job!
diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-# An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
+# An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split v2
 
 This guide covers building a Let's Split v2. Order your parts and read over this guide while you wait.
 

diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ I2C isn't covered in this guide (yet), mostly because I didn't do it for my buil
 - [ ] 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros ([official](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640) or [clone](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Pro-Mini-Leonardo-USB-/222383274330?hash=item33c713795a:g:3CkAAOSwubRXMmnp))
 - [ ] 48 1N4148 diodes ([1N4148FS-ND](https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=1N4148FS-ND))
 - [ ] 2 TRRS jacks ([CP-43514-ND](https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-inc/SJ-43514/CP-43514-ND/368146))
-- [ ] Plate & case ([part files](https://github.com/climbalima/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/lets_split/imgs/letssplitv2.svg))
+- [ ] Plate & case ([part files](https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/lets_split/imgs/letssplitv2.svg))
 - [ ] 8 [10mm M3 standoffs](https://www.mcmaster.com/#94868A166) 
 - [ ] 16 [6mm M3 screws](https://www.mcmaster.com/#91292A111)
 - [ ] [TRRS cable](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TRW4HQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
@@ -98,6 +98,8 @@ The long part of the pins should be protruding from the bottom. We'll trim these
 
 ### Mount the 2 switches under the Pro Micro
 
+> *Heads up:* The plate design linked in this build is not symmetrical. One edge is slightly smaller than the other. You probably want the small edge towards the center of the board.
+
 1. Grab 2 switches and your top plate
 2. Snap the switches into your plate in the spots that overlay the Pro Micro (on the left side that's column 2, and on the right that's column 5).
 3. Line up your PCB with the switches and solder them between the header pins

diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -4,6 +4,10 @@ This guide covers building a Let's Split v2. Order your parts and read over this
 
 I2C isn't covered in this guide (yet), mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
 
+## Helpful references
+
+- [wootpatoot's v2 assembly instructions](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5funsl/guidelets_split_v2_assembly_instructions/)
+
 ## Parts
 
 - [ ] [v2 PCB](http://www.switchtop.com/product/let-s-split-40-percent-pcb)
@@ -134,4 +138,3 @@ Home stretch. Gently snap in the rest of the switches and solder them.
 2. Install your keycaps and connect the two halves with the TRRS cable.
 
 Great job!
-
diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -1,13 +1,13 @@
 # An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
 
-This guide covers building a Let's Split v2.
+This guide covers building a Let's Split v2. Order your parts and read over this guide while you wait.
 
-I2C is not covered in this guide, mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
+I2C isn't covered in this guide (yet), mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
 
 ## Parts
 
 - [ ] [v2 PCB](http://www.switchtop.com/product/let-s-split-40-percent-pcb)
-- [x] 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros ([official](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640) or [clone](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Pro-Mini-Leonardo-USB-/222383274330?hash=item33c713795a:g:3CkAAOSwubRXMmnp))
+- [ ] 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros ([official](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640) or [clone](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Pro-Mini-Leonardo-USB-/222383274330?hash=item33c713795a:g:3CkAAOSwubRXMmnp))
 - [ ] 48 1N4148 diodes ([1N4148FS-ND](https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=1N4148FS-ND))
 - [ ] 2 TRRS jacks ([CP-43514-ND](https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-inc/SJ-43514/CP-43514-ND/368146))
 - [ ] Plate & case ([part files](https://github.com/climbalima/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/lets_split/imgs/letssplitv2.svg))
@@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ Flip your PCB over and solder the diodes then snip the excess leads.
 
 Mount the TRRS jack on the side opposite from your diodes. It should be on the bottom.
 
-*Tip:* Use masking tape or a spare finger to hold it in place while you solder it. Tack a couple pins and make sure it's snug against the board, then do the rest.
+> *Tip:* Use masking tape or a spare finger to hold it in place while you solder it. Tack a couple pins and make sure it's snug against the board, then do the rest.
 
 ## Connect Jumpers
 
@@ -84,13 +84,13 @@ Tack the 2 pins on the end and inspect. If the pins are not quite aligned with t
 
 Solder the rest of the pins (it won't take much solder here).
 
-The long of your pins should be protruding from the bottom. We'll need to trim these later, but you can leave them be for now.
+The long part of the pins should be protruding from the bottom. We'll trim these later after soldering the Pro Micro, but you can leave them be for now.
 
 ## Mount the Pro Micro
 
 **Pay special attention on this step**. There are several things that need to be done in the right order and orientation.
 
-*Tip:* Flash your Pro Micro now before you mount it. You can test it by using a multimeter to measure the voltage between VCC and RAW. It should be around 5V. If it's bad it'll be a lot less headache than desoldering.
+> *Tip:* Flash your Pro Micro now before you mount it. You can test it by using a multimeter to measure the voltage between VCC and RAW. It should be around 5V. If it's bad it'll be a lot less headache than desoldering.
 
 ### Mount the 2 switches under the Pro Micro
 
@@ -113,6 +113,8 @@ Ensure the orientation of your controllers are correct and you've already solder
 
 At this point you should be able to plug in and verify the board is working and the two mounted switches should work (if you already flashed). If it is, great job!
 
+Trim the excess from the header pins.
+
 ## Mount the rest of the switches
 
 Home stretch. Gently snap in the rest of the switches and solder them.
@@ -124,7 +126,7 @@ Home stretch. Gently snap in the rest of the switches and solder them.
 3. Line up the bottom of the case with the standoffs
 4. Screw in the bottom screws to the standoffs
 
-*Tip:* Finger tight is sufficient, but you can snug them down just a tad with a tool. Be easy, they don't need much!
+> *Tip:* Finger tight is sufficient, but you can snug them down just a tad with a tool. Be easy, they don't need much!
 
 ## Finishing touches
 

diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ I2C is not covered in this guide, mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
 ## Parts
 
 - [ ] [v2 PCB](http://www.switchtop.com/product/let-s-split-40-percent-pcb)
-- [ ] 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros ([official](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640) or [clone](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Pro-Mini-Leonardo-USB-/222383274330?hash=item33c713795a:g:3CkAAOSwubRXMmnp))
+- [x] 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros ([official](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640) or [clone](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Pro-Mini-Leonardo-USB-/222383274330?hash=item33c713795a:g:3CkAAOSwubRXMmnp))
 - [ ] 48 1N4148 diodes ([1N4148FS-ND](https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=1N4148FS-ND))
 - [ ] 2 TRRS jacks ([CP-43514-ND](https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-inc/SJ-43514/CP-43514-ND/368146))
 - [ ] Plate & case ([part files](https://github.com/climbalima/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/lets_split/imgs/letssplitv2.svg))

diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ I2C is not covered in this guide, mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
 
 ## Parts
 
-- [x] [v2 PCB](http://www.switchtop.com/product/let-s-split-40-percent-pcb)
+- [ ] [v2 PCB](http://www.switchtop.com/product/let-s-split-40-percent-pcb)
 - [ ] 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros ([official](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640) or [clone](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Pro-Mini-Leonardo-USB-/222383274330?hash=item33c713795a:g:3CkAAOSwubRXMmnp))
 - [ ] 48 1N4148 diodes ([1N4148FS-ND](https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=1N4148FS-ND))
 - [ ] 2 TRRS jacks ([CP-43514-ND](https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-inc/SJ-43514/CP-43514-ND/368146))

diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ I2C is not covered in this guide, mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
 
 ## Parts
 
-- [ ] [v2 PCB](http://www.switchtop.com/product/let-s-split-40-percent-pcb)
+- [x] [v2 PCB](http://www.switchtop.com/product/let-s-split-40-percent-pcb)
 - [ ] 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros ([official](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640) or [clone](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Pro-Mini-Leonardo-USB-/222383274330?hash=item33c713795a:g:3CkAAOSwubRXMmnp))
 - [ ] 48 1N4148 diodes ([1N4148FS-ND](https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=1N4148FS-ND))
 - [ ] 2 TRRS jacks ([CP-43514-ND](https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-inc/SJ-43514/CP-43514-ND/368146))

diff --git a/lets split build guide.md b/lets split build guide.md
@@ -0,0 +1,135 @@
+# An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
+
+This guide covers building a Let's Split v2.
+
+I2C is not covered in this guide, mostly because I didn't do it for my build.
+
+## Parts
+
+- [ ] [v2 PCB](http://www.switchtop.com/product/let-s-split-40-percent-pcb)
+- [ ] 2 5V/16MHz Pro Micros ([official](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640) or [clone](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Pro-Mini-Leonardo-USB-/222383274330?hash=item33c713795a:g:3CkAAOSwubRXMmnp))
+- [ ] 48 1N4148 diodes ([1N4148FS-ND](https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=1N4148FS-ND))
+- [ ] 2 TRRS jacks ([CP-43514-ND](https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-inc/SJ-43514/CP-43514-ND/368146))
+- [ ] Plate & case ([part files](https://github.com/climbalima/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/lets_split/imgs/letssplitv2.svg))
+- [ ] 8 [10mm M3 standoffs](https://www.mcmaster.com/#94868A166) 
+- [ ] 16 [6mm M3 screws](https://www.mcmaster.com/#91292A111)
+- [ ] [TRRS cable](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TRW4HQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
+- [ ] 48 [Switches of your choice](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=107)
+
+## Order the case
+
+Download the raw plate SVG from Github (Alt-click **Raw** should do it).
+
+Head over to [Ponoko](https://www.ponoko.com/) and create an account if it's your first time.
+
+1. Click **My Designs** > **Overview** > **Add a new design**
+2. Click **Upload your design** and select the `letssplitv2.svg` file
+3. Click **Add this design**
+4. Set the Quantity to 2 (the design is only 1 side)
+5. Click **Add Materials** > **Add a Material**
+6. Select **Choose a material type** > **Plastic** 
+7. Select **Choose a material** > **Acrylic - Clear - Antistatic** (You can choose whatever type of material you like. We'll be using Acrylic for this build.)
+8. Select **Choose a thickness** > **0.118 inches**
+9. Select **Choose a size** > **P1 - 7.126 inches long x 7.126 inches wide**
+10. Click **Add this material**
+11. Your total should be around $36
+12. Click **Make it** and complete the order process
+
+## Mount the Diodes
+
+Diodes allow current to flow in one direction only. Mount the diodes with the black line facing the square pad.
+
+You'll want to determine the orientation of your boards right now. Remember, they're symmetrical, but you can set it up to have your TRRS jacks on the inside or on the same side (right or left). For this build we'll be mounting our TRRS jacks on the inside, closest to one another.
+
+- The **left PCB** will have the **TRRS jack on the right**
+- The **right PCB** will have the **TRRS jack on the left**
+
+This orientation will determine the top of your PCB. Insert the diodes on the top. Once mounted they will fit between the PCB and the plate.
+
+Use a helping hand tool to hold the PCB above your work surface.
+
+Use a small pair of pliers to gently make a 90 degree bend on each side of the diode. It might take a few tries to get right, but you'll get the hang of it soon. They should drop easily into the 2 holes. 
+
+**Double check your work**. Black lines should be facing the square pad.
+
+**Lightly** tack each diode in from the top. This will keep them snug against the surface once we flip it over and do the real soldering from the bottom. You only need a tiny amount of solder here and you should still be able to see through the hole.
+
+Flip your PCB over and solder the diodes then snip the excess leads.
+
+## Mount the TRRS Jack
+
+Mount the TRRS jack on the side opposite from your diodes. It should be on the bottom.
+
+*Tip:* Use masking tape or a spare finger to hold it in place while you solder it. Tack a couple pins and make sure it's snug against the board, then do the rest.
+
+## Connect Jumpers
+
+Right below the TRRS jack you'll see two sets of 3 pads labelled VCC and GND. Jumper them like this:
+
+```
+VCC [x]     [ ] VCC
+    [x]     [x]
+GND [ ]     [x] GND
+```
+
+Do both PCBs the same.
+
+## Mount Header Pins
+
+You should have received header pins with your Pro Micro. Insert the short side into the bottom of PCB (same side as the TRRS jack) and solder them in. 
+
+Tip: To keep them aligned you can slip the Pro Micro over the pins but **do not solder the Pro Micro at this time**.
+
+Tack the 2 pins on the end and inspect. If the pins are not quite aligned with the board, heat one side with your iron and press it in. It should make a satisfactory "click". 
+
+Solder the rest of the pins (it won't take much solder here).
+
+The long of your pins should be protruding from the bottom. We'll need to trim these later, but you can leave them be for now.
+
+## Mount the Pro Micro
+
+**Pay special attention on this step**. There are several things that need to be done in the right order and orientation.
+
+*Tip:* Flash your Pro Micro now before you mount it. You can test it by using a multimeter to measure the voltage between VCC and RAW. It should be around 5V. If it's bad it'll be a lot less headache than desoldering.
+
+### Mount the 2 switches under the Pro Micro
+
+1. Grab 2 switches and your top plate
+2. Snap the switches into your plate in the spots that overlay the Pro Micro (on the left side that's column 2, and on the right that's column 5).
+3. Line up your PCB with the switches and solder them between the header pins
+
+### Mount the Pro Micro the Right Way
+
+You'll be working from the bottom of the board for this step.
+
+- On the **left PCB** the Pro Micro should be **smooth side up** (facing you)
+- On the **right PCB** the Pro Micro should be **component side up** (facing you)
+
+You may need to **trim the pins on the left side switches** as they will likely touch the controller and prevent it from resting flush with the pins.
+
+**Clearance is going to be tight on the right side** between the USB and the bottom of the plate, so make sure you've got it as snug as possible against the header pins.
+
+Ensure the orientation of your controllers are correct and you've already soldered the 2 switches underneath, then solder all the pins on the Pro Micro.
+
+At this point you should be able to plug in and verify the board is working and the two mounted switches should work (if you already flashed). If it is, great job!
+
+## Mount the rest of the switches
+
+Home stretch. Gently snap in the rest of the switches and solder them.
+
+## Assemble the case
+
+1. Insert the screws on top
+2. Screw the standoffs onto the top screws
+3. Line up the bottom of the case with the standoffs
+4. Screw in the bottom screws to the standoffs
+
+*Tip:* Finger tight is sufficient, but you can snug them down just a tad with a tool. Be easy, they don't need much!
+
+## Finishing touches
+
+1. Add some adhesive vinyl pads to the bottom
+2. Install your keycaps and connect the two halves with the TRRS cable.
+
+Great job!
+